Omoto 0615 - 13.5oz - Relax Fit

For the 0615, Omoto uses its 13.5oz fabric – the denim Hiroki Kishimoto himself calls the brand's greatest achievement so far. The weight is versatile enough to wear all year round, and the character lies in the cotton blend: 65% Memphis cotton from the USA, which combines firmness with suppleness, and 35% Zimbabwe cotton, which balances softness and durability.

The fabric is woven on a 1950s Sakamoto shuttle loom, with the yarn kept at low tension throughout. That gives an airier, more irregular surface than modern high-tension weaving, with the fuzzy texture that defined 1950s jeans. The selvedge ID is blue.

The warp yarns are rope dyed with 100% pure indigo, while the weft stays white. Only the outer layer of the yarn takes the colour, and the core stays light. This contrast – both within each yarn and between the blue warp and the white weft – is why fades come through with depth and nuance as the fabric wears.

The denim is unsanforized but pre-washed, so the shrinkage is taken care of before it reaches you. At the back of the waist sits a vegetable-tanned leather patch, which darkens and builds patina in step with the denim. The seams are chain stitched, giving the characteristic roping effect at the hem after a few washes.