Guide: What does the weight - ounces (oz) - of your jeans mean?
Ounces is the weight measurement used to describe the thickness of denim. The weight of the fabric is crucial to how the jeans develop over time. In this guide, we explain the different weight categories and what weight you should choose based on the type of fade you are looking for.
How is denim weight measured?
Weight is measured in ounces per square yard of fabric. In Europe, we usually use grams per square meter for textiles, but for jeans, the old American measurements have set the standard. In our online store, we use oz as the measurement for both jeans and other garments, and you will often find the weight listed in the product tab.
Different weight categories
We divide denim into three main categories: light, medium, and heavy-weight denim.
Lightweight (under 12 oz)
This is the thinnest category. The original work pants were rarely thicker than 11 oz, but in today's market, these are considered light jeans – perfect for warm summer days.
- Break-in: Requires no "break-in." They are soft and breathable from day one.
- Fade potential: Usually produces flat and subtle vintage fades. The fabric is too thin to hold deep creases.
- Best for: Comfort. But honestly – if you want something that thin, you should perhaps consider linen trousers or a pair of chinos instead?
Mid-weight (12 oz – 17.5 oz) – Our recommendation
This is "the sweet spot" and what we sell by far the most of. Our bestseller, Left Hand Twill (13.75 oz), is a perfect place to start to get the crisp feel of raw denim without completely losing mobility.
- Break-in: They are stiff at first, but after three weeks, you will have broken in the worst of the stiffness. After three months, they start to feel like your favorite pair of pants.
- Fade potential: Perfect balance. Here you get both natural patina and the possibility for sharp honeycombs and whiskers.
- Best for: Year-round wear and your very first selvedge jeans.
Heavyweight (18 oz and up)
This is the category for enthusiasts. We're talking about fabric so robust that it requires special sewing machines – these are not jeans you can hem on your home sewing machine!
- Break-in: For the first three months, the jeans are stiff and hard. Even buttoning them up can be a struggle for your fingers. After three to six months, they become "broken in" and feel like soft armor specifically adapted to your body.
- Fade potential: Maximum. The thick creases create the deepest and most dramatic high contrast fades available.
- Best for: Winter wear and for those who want the rawest result regardless of effort.
What weight should you choose?
The choice is about the balance between patience and the result you want:
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Do you want a smooth start? Go for mid-weight (approx. 14 oz). You'll get the authentic feel, and the pants will become comfortable within a short time.
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Do you want extreme contrasts? Go for heavyweight (18 oz+). For the thick fibers to wrinkle properly and create high contrast, you should choose a relatively tight model that wrinkles well behind the knees.
The history behind the weight
Interestingly, denim used to be much lighter. When the first shuttle looms made workwear for gold miners, they were rarely over 11 oz. What we call "heavyweight" today is a result of modern perfection and denim-heads who always want to push the boundaries of what is possible to weave and sew.
Written by Inger Kristin Haugsevje
