Guide: What exactly is unsanforized raw denim?

The vast majority of jeans you find in stores today are sanforized. This is a mechanical process that uses heat and steam to compress the fabric and remove shrinkage before it is sewn.

Unsanforized denim is more authentic

Unsanforized denim (also known as kibata) represents the traditional way of producing denim. Here, sanforization is skipped, meaning the fabric is in its most raw and untreated form and has not been exposed to the process that prevents the fabric from shrinking and twisting too much in the first wash.

What is the enthusiasm for this difficult fabric?

Sanforization is practical, but the process flattens the fabric and often burns away the natural cotton fibers to create a perfect surface. By choosing unsanforized, you get properties that more closely resemble how jeans looked in the old days:

• Extreme texture: The fabric retains its natural character, often appearing more "hairy"
• Imperfect beauty: Small slubs in the yarn (neps) survive, giving the jeans a unique and organic vintage look.
• The legendary "Leg Twist": Since the fabric lacks anti-twist treatment, the side seams will naturally twist over time. For connoisseurs, this is the ultimate proof that the jeans are genuine kibata.

The Shrinkage Trap: How to find the right size

This is the most important point: Unsanforized denim will shrink. Since the fabric is not pre-shrunk, you should expect it to contract between 8% and 10% in the first wash. On special, loosely woven fabrics, shrinkage can actually be as extreme as 30%.

Our advice for sizing:

• Don't buy too small: A common mistake is to buy jeans so tight that you can just barely button them. Remember that they will shrink significantly in the wash.
• Check the size chart: We often provide both "pre-soak" (raw) and "post-soak" (estimated after wash) measurements.
• Wiggle room: We generally recommend having a little extra room in the waist when the pants are new, especially for heavy qualities over 20 oz.

Rinsed denim - the best of both worlds

To eliminate uncertainty, many manufacturers choose to give the jeans a controlled wash at the factory (Tempe one-wash or rinse-wash).

This is brilliant for those who want unsanforized character without the risk. It's also more sustainable, because you don't risk buying jeans you can't use due to incorrect sizing.

• The shrinkage has already been removed from the fabric.
• You retain the unique, slubby texture and the notorious leg twist.
• The denim fabric often feels softer and more comfortable right away.

Unsanforized denim is for those who view jeans as a project, not just a garment. It requires a little more planning, but the reward is a fit and texture that is 100% unique to your body and your use.