On our product pages, you will often find information about selvedge ID, warp, and weft. But what exactly is the difference, and why is it so important for how your jeans will fade?

Warp and Weft

The Warp consists of the longitudinal threads set up in the loom. On a classic pair of jeans, this thread is typically indigo-dyed through a process called rope dyeing. While blue indigo is the most common, other colors can be used, with black being the most popular alternative. The color of the warp determines what the jeans look like on the outside and how they fade.

The Weft is the thread woven horizontally into the warp. On traditional jeans, this is usually a white, undyed cotton thread. Since this thread mainly sits on the back (inside) of the fabric, there was traditionally no reason to "waste" expensive dye on it. This white weft is why the inside of a classic pair of jeans is lighter than the outside.

Core Fades

Typically, indigo blue jeans will fade and lose color over time. This happens because the rope dyeing process applies the dye in layers on the outside of the thread, while the core remains white. As the textile wears down, the white core is revealed.

Core Fades are a special type of denim where the thread is first dyed with a different color (e.g., red or green), then dyed with indigo on top. When the jeans wear down, they won't fade to white, but to the color residing in the core of the thread. This provides a completely unique and spectacular fading experience.

The Color of the Cuff

It is a common misconception that jeans will fade to the color seen on the cuff. That’s not how it works. The color of the weft is what gives color to the inside and, consequently, the cuff.

It is only when the jeans are extremely worn, and the fibers in the warp are almost gone, that you will see the color of the weft shining through the holes or the thin threads left hanging.