Guide: What exactly is a fade? And why are we so obsessed with it?

Fades are perhaps what we talk about most with our customers. Everyone wants to know how their different jeans will develop. But what does it actually mean? The word "fade" describes the process by which your jeans develop patina, wear, and character over time.

To understand how a fade occurs, we need to look at how a classic raw denim selvedge jeans is made.

How is denim made? (Twill weave)

Denim is a cotton fabric woven as a twill. This means the fabric has the characteristic diagonal lines you see on its surface. This is because the loom passes the thread over one thread and then under two (or more) threads.

This creates a pattern that shifts with each row, resulting in a fabric that is significantly more durable and softer than regular plain-weave canvas.

Warp and Weft in raw denim

Jeans consist of two types of threads:

• Warp: The longitudinal threads. In classic denim, these are dyed with indigo.

• Weft: The transverse threads. These are usually white or undyed, which is why your jeans are lighter on the inside than on the outside.

The Secret: Rope Dyeing

The indigo dye in the warp threads is applied through a process called rope dyeing. The cotton thread is repeatedly dipped in a fermented plant bath (from the Indigofera plant).

By repeating this dipping, the dye builds up in layers on the outermost fibers of the thread, while the core remains white. It is this white core that is the "engine" of a fade.

How your unique fades are created

Fading is the result of two things happening simultaneously:

1. Washing: The indigo dye is slowly washed out of the cotton fibers, and the fabric becomes uniformly lighter. This gives you the classic vintage fades.

2. Friction: At points where the jeans are exposed to the most movement and rubbing (knees, crotch, pockets), the outermost indigo-dyed layers wear away completely. This reveals the white core of the thread. This creates the dramatic high contrast fades.

The combination of how you move and how often you choose to wash determines how your unique "story" is written in the fabric.

Want to learn more about washing and care?

When you know how much effort goes into the dyeing, you also understand why it's important to wash correctly to achieve the desired result:

• The ultimate washing guide – Everything you need to know about machine settings and drying.

• Washing jeans in vinegar? – Why acid can actually damage your indigo dye.

• The ritual: How to hand wash your jeans – The gentlest method for rope-dyed denim.